Ok so I was working on a part at work I made some soft Jaws to hold it because it was milling the part down to 2.06 mm at it’s lowest point and 14.76 mm at it’s two highest points think skateboard half Pike well the first one I ran I had at like .07 of a mm all the way around some high some lower than the 14.76 but within my .13 tolerance now there was lots of pulling off by other shifts finally what I ended up with on a different machine was a tapper from front to back of .0027 inch is there away to make my machine shift the Z to counter this angle?
Photos, prints, or something else, I tried to follow your description and I walked away with nothing in my head to visualize. Sorry.
So from the deck up to the top of this part is supposed to be a single height and it’s tappering off at an angle
Not sure if you’re working with the solid model or not? Could you possibly consider editing the solid model.
Is there anyway that instead of doing it and the horizontal plane using your Z to setting it on its side using the X and Y maybe use some mighty bite Pitbull clamps? Or possibly putting a .002 shim under the tall end?
As thin as the part is in the middle and the long span, you may have movement during clamping. I would brought it leaving about .020 on bottom face, web and the top. skin the bottom then place it on that face use a some talon grips to pull it down then finish mill. If accuracy is way important, I would wire edm the part, that way I would have a nice remnant to use for other projects.
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I have wondered about using mite bites it’s just such a thing bottom 2.06 mm ish I’m not sure it would not flex?
Also I’m pretty new to all this what is wire EDM?
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Since you asked, then it is safe to assume you do not have one in your shop. Here are a few videos showing type of work and process
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That is amazing no we don’t have anything like that in our shop we have a bunch of vf2s 3s a pallet changer a 4th axis and a vf something SS and 2 manual mills
This was caused by some deflection and tool path.
I’m gonna say deflection is what your getting either from the jaws or the tool path/ feeds and speeds. That is just judging by eye looking at that part and the lines i see with that lighting.
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The issue isn’t working much the finish it’s the fact that the front jaw is lifting up some it’s a Kurt Vise I’ve tried tightening it and didn’t help much… another shift tried it on parallels and didn’t change anything but milling some off the hard jaws and got an almost identical part so anyway to fix this?or just insist on a little more tolerance?
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So you have tried tightening the front jaw down by the adjuster screw. I have tightened them a little more snug than they should be to keep the front jaw from lifting. Which this sucks a bit as obviously will make cycling your vise will be harder but may help you out… If not then I would look into the tool path, feeds, speeds, step over, and such.
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dumb question: have youput a DTI on the spindle/tool and check the vise or table, etc front to rear for taper? Basic stuff, but only takes a minute to check…
looking at the photo of your part, I would make this part using a different work holding strategy.
for example: Let’s say this part is 30mm x 15mm x 98mm
-1st, start with a blank that is at least 32mm wide x 16mm thick.
-.2nd, skim / face cut 0.5mm off the top and bottom (the 32mm wide x 98mm surfaces) to remove any surface stress from the cold roll process. In some cases, blank prep requires the top, then bottom, then top (again) to be faced to get a nice flat surface.
- 3rd, determine which faced surface is flattest and mount it against the against vise fixed jaw, and machine similar as shown in this link: https://youtu.be/7rjOIfOcES0 Use largest OD and shortest stick-out length endmill as possible (maybe carbide endmill too? ) for minimum tool deflection.
-4th, flip over in vise and face off the 2mm excess, to desired 30mm width.
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in my opinion there are two ways to do this part with a good quality:
if the number of pieces is under 12/15 ,you may cut an higher stock (2" for examlpe if the finished size is 1");
putting 3/4 inside the vice ,then give it the requested shape and cut it whith a disc mill at desired thickness.
If you have a huge lot ,it is better to give thickness on your 3 axis and then move to a wire EDM .
bye
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