Spot Drills and Drill Mills - help needed

We ran the Titan-1M project with a Lakeshore Carbide 1/4" 90 degree drill mill and broke probably .020 off the tip of it. Do you have any suggestions for how to do this better?

I’m not sure what is very different about the Kennametal 1/4 chamfer mill in the Academy kit. Should I be using a “Spot Drill” rather than a “Drill Mill” to do both the spotting and chamfer?

Also, when probing these tools on the Haas, do I need to worry at all about the very sharp point coming down on the tool probe?

Thanks in advance.

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I had a large inventory of carbide 1/2" diameter NC spotting drills with 135 degree included angle. I had all my students add the spot drill to their building block library and they call upon it whenever a spot drill or tap countersink is needed. You have to also change your part design to have a 135 included angle if you are picking the surface to meet correct depth.

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In the lathe section of Fusion, I can tell it what diameter chamfer I want. Yes you have to have the angle included in the tool but I just pick the face or the hole and tell it what diameter I want and it goes the proper depth.

Maybe your speeds and feeds are too aggressive and the tips are breaking.

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I have had better luck with HSS and cobalt spot drills. The carbide ones are very brittle at the tip and the slightest thing seems to chip them. If i do use one with the tool probe i usually define as an endmill so it will be spinning and it typically contacts the probe much softer than when using the drill tool probe cycle.

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What kind of material are you working with?

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on your chamfer tool where you trying to cut out on the very tip of it? or did you move like .05 - .200 up from the tip? or did you try to cut the chamfer with the point of the tool? how big of a cut did you take ? how much rpm, how much feed rate?

the “drill mill” is the proper tool, the “spot drill” is not.

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